Living in Italy for ten months has left me with a least one culinary skill. What is that you ask? Well, not pasta making, regrettably. I have, however, become quite well versed in the art of finding excellent gelato. But, before we begin our explorations, here is a primer on this frozen goodness so prevalent in Italy.
So, what exactly is gelato and how does it differ from what we are accustomed to in the United States?
Well, to start off with, gelato is a frozen dessert that comes in both dairy based and fruit-based (sorbetto) varieties. Literally speaking, it is milk, sugar and flavors of choice, or in the fruit-based varieties, sugar water and fruit. The ingredients really are that simple. The crafting of such treats is rather arcane, but at its heart, this is a simple dish. In general, it is far denser that our run of the mill American dessert. Frankly, there is close to seventy percent less air in it, and it comes with an equally powerful flavor. Keep this in mind when you grab a cup, as we Americans tend to expect larger portion sizes. Additionally, this dessert is substantially lower in both sugar, fat and calories than its American cousins, a fact worth noting for those of us watching our waste lines. Who invented this wonderful dessert is lost to the sands of time, but many attribute the creation to Bernardo Buontalenti who crafted this delicacy for the Medici in the 1500’s. To their credit, the Sicilians supposedly learned the art of the Sorbetto from the Arabs in earlier in history, but who really knows. Let’s leave the debate to the Italians and move on how to spot good gelato.
Next, how do you tell 'good' gelato from ‘lower quality’ gelato.
If we are being honest, this is Florence and, for the average American, all of this frozen goodness tastes like heaven. Moreover, you will be bombarded by gelateria on every street corner, especially in the more tourist heavy areas, specifically near the Duomo and by Santa Croce. If you take your time to be discerning, however, you will learn quickly that there are three main styles of gelato, and, no I do not mean regional varieties. One key rule to always follow when discerning good gelato is to look at the fruit flavors. Think about it. A sorbetto is a supposed to be three ingredients: water, sugar and fruit. Yes, there is some variation in the amounts based on location and tradition, but that is all there is supposed to be in it. If you note incredibly bright, less-than-natural colors that span the rainbow, steer clear. These are signs of artificial colorings added in the mixing process. It really is that simple.
The Types of Gelateria
First, the Mountain. This kind of gelateria piles their offering in massive, seemingly gravity defying mounds of sugar laced delights. If you run into this, feel free to grab a cup, but be aware of two things. First, these are made from premade mixes, not unlike instant mashed potatoes. (Can you tell that I am biased yet?). Second, you remember those mountainous shapes I was mentioning earlier? Well, they do not defy only gravity, they defy temperature as well. Shapes like that would melt into puddles without chemical additives to keep them frozen at temperatures above freezing. So, enjoy these sugar-laced flights of fancy, but, trust me, there are better out there.
Second, the Tray. These shops make up the vast majority of quality shops in the Florence area. They showcase their offerings in flat, rectangular trays, and are very, very good, but they do not use the freshest ingredients nor are they usually 100% organic. By way of guidance, here are three examples of the is:
Gelateria Santa Trinita
Gelateria La Carraia
Gelateria Dei Neri
Amorino (By way of special mention, get a cone if you go to this shop. They give you up to four choices of flavors, sometimes more if the sever is generous, and then shape it into a flower. Pricey, easily double what you usually pay, but worth it for the experience at least once.)
Third, the Well. You will not be able to see these shops offerings when you approach because they are in sealed wells behind the counter. This is your sign. These shops offer the best quality gelato, without question. Because of the simple nature of this gelato, they have to keep it sealed in chilled containers, additionally, it does not keep as long, so they have to make it fresh regularly. These shops have high likelihood of using the highest quality ingredients, although they do tend to be a little more expensive, though an extra 0.50 euro is worth it.
Rivareno Gelato: arguably the best in Florence, or at least in my experience.
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